Liquid Gold Leaf FAQ's
We live in a throwaway society where it’s easier and quicker to replace rather than repair. We’ve moved so far away from the make do and mend mentality of previous generations to the opposite end of the scale. We chuck away everything, plastic, faulty appliances, clothing and plants that are deemed to be ‘imperfect’. A culture obsessed by perfection leads to millions of healthy plants being discarded. For years I've been rescuing plants destined for the bin and documenting their recovery to show that with a little extra care these plants will flourish and thrive.
Sarah Gerrard-Jones is the author of 'The Plant Rescuer - The Book Your Houseplants Want You to Read' (Bloomsbury 2022) and writes for magazines, newspapers and websites including Grazia, Bloom Magazine, The Spruce and Apartment Therapy.
In 2022 Sarah set up the Plant Rescue Box Scheme with the aim of reducing plant waste.
Sarahs amazing book can be purchased at -
You can also follow Sarahs story and support her Rescue Box campaign at -
https://www.theplantrescuer.com
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Struggling with orchids? Here’s how to get them blooming for decades They may have a reputation for being divas, but orchids are easy to please — once you know how. Plus, which variety to choose for your house Phalaenopsis can bloom multiple times a year, at any time of the year and for long periods Sarah Gerrard-Jones Sunday January 28 2024, 12.01am, The Sunday Time
Cheaper than a bunch of flowers and with the potential to bloom for decades, few plants surpass the orchid in terms of beauty, diversity, longevity and ability to adapt to living in our homes. Having said that, I know many people struggle to keep orchids alive or manage to persuade them to be anything more than a couple of sad leaves sitting in a pot. As with all houseplants, orchids have a few basic care requirements that should be adhered to if you want them to bloom, none of which are challenging or time-consuming and once you understand their needs, like me, you’ll probably want to fill your house with them.
Which orchid to choose?
Phalaenopsis Commonly known as the moth orchid for the resemblance of the flowers to moths or butterflies, this is the most commercially grown orchid, and for good reason. Available in a wide range of sizes and colours, they can bloom multiple times a year, at any time of the year (including winter) and for long periods. A very affordable, entry-level orchid, easy to encourage to rebloom year after year. Everyone should have at least one in their home.
Dendrobium Belonging to a genus of more than 1,000 species, Dendrobium nobile and Dendrobium phalaenopsis, two of the most commercially available, have distinctive cane-like stems with leaves arranged alternately along the stem. D. nobile flowers are often mildly fragrant and appear in clusters on the nodes of the canes, whereas D. phalaenopsis is more delicate, with flowers emerging from the canes on a slender stem, like Phalaenopsis. Beginners should have no problem keeping this orchid happy.
Paphiopedilum Slipper orchids are cultivated for their flowers and beautifully patterned leaves, making them a good choice for those who want something to appreciate when the plant isn’t in bloom. Paphiopedilum flowers are real showstoppers, their bulbous shape reminiscent of ballet shoes or slippers. More unusual than Phalaenopsis, but widely available online and in many garden centres. They are a good option if you don’t have much space as they stay compact.
Ludisia discolor Unlike most other orchids, this isn’t one to buy for the flowers, which, although beautiful, aren’t big, colourful or showy. The main attraction is the striking iridescent, pink-striped, dark foliage. Jewel orchids grow on the forest floor, not on trees, so they need to be potted in soil rather than bark and tolerate lower light levels than epiphytic orchids. Find the right spot (a metre or so back from a window), and the Ludisia will produce blooms of small white flowers during winter. Buy this orchid if your home doesn’t have great natural light.
How to care for orchids
Light All plants must receive enough light to make the energy needed to grow. A common mistake is to put orchids where we think they look nicest, but that isn’t necessarily best light-wise. As a general guide, most orchids will do well on an east or west-facing windowsill (or no further back than 2-3ft) where direct light will reach the plant for only part of the day, apart from those that prefer a slightly shadier area, such as Ludisia. The further away a plant is from a window, the less likely it is to remain healthy and the more likely it is to develop an ailment or be attacked by pests. A plant that gets the right amount of light (and water) will grow; one in low light can struggle to survive.
Water Check your orchids every three to four days to see how quickly the substrate is drying out, and familiarise yourself with how heavy the pot is when watered and how light it is when dry. Best practice is to water as soon as the substrate has dried and not to allow the plant to go without water for extended periods, as this can result in poor or weak growth. Paphiopedilum and Ludisiadon’t like to dry out fully and prefer watering when the substrate is approaching dry. Phalaenopsis are one of the easiest to know when to water as their roots will turn from green to silver-coloured when dry, and this is your cue to water. The most effective way to water Phalaenopsis is to soak the pot. Put the clear pot inside another pot (or pan) to fully submerge the roots. Leave to soak for 10-20 minutes and then drain. The soaking method allows the bark to absorb moisture, which the roots can access over a more extended period.
Feed Orchids are light feeders but appreciate fertiliser added to their water every four to six weeks, from spring to autumn. Choose a good quality feed that dechlorinates tap water and promotes microbial life, such as Liquid Gold Leaf liquidgoldleaf.co.uk
Common problems
Root rot Watering orchids too frequently or not giving them enough light can lead to yellowing leaves and rotting roots. Healthy roots are light cream, green or silver-coloured; if they’re brown, shrivelled or mushy, they’re rotting and need to be removed using a pair of sterilised scissors. After cutting off the dead roots, rinse the remaining healthy roots and repot the plant into clean, fresh substrate.
Pests The most common houseplant pests are mealy bugs, scale, spider mites, thrips and aphids. Pay close attention to changes in the colour of the leaves or brown patches, as this can be a sign of pests. There are several methods to rid plants of pests, and I always suggest using natural control instead of pesticides as it’s better for the environment and the plant. Start by wiping or picking them off, then spraying the entire plant with horticultural soap. Be vigilant and continue to remove pests when you see them to disrupt their life cycle. Another effective natural product is diatomaceous earth (opt for food grade), which can be dusted on to the leaves. This cuts the exoskeleton of the insects and dries them out. It’s only effective when completely dry, and wearing a mask as a precaution is advisable because, like perlite, the tiny airborne dust particles shouldn’t be inhaled.
No flowers If an orchid doesn’t receive enough light, it’s unlikely to flower and will put the little energy it has into root and foliage growth instead. Some orchids flower in response to short days and a drop in temperature, so try positioning stubbornly bare plants close to a bright windowsill that gets cool at night. Avoid placing orchids on a south-facing windowsill in summer as the sun can quickly burn the leaves, but winter sun is ideal — combined with lower temperatures, this can help to trigger blooming.
Buying orchids I never buy Phalaenopsis in full bloom. I always buy them when they’ve finished flowering and have been discounted. If the flower stem is still green, I cut it below the lowest flower and above a node (bump on the stem); they will often flower again from the same stem. If it’s brown, I cut the stem off at the base and wait for it to produce a new one. I don’t ever use stakes for the flower stems; they look so much more natural when the flowers are allowed to cascade downwards as they would in the wild.
Fantastic to see Liquid Gold Leaf named in the Sunday Times in their Orchid care guide written by plant expert Sarah Gerrard-Jones https://www.theplantrescuer.com